"Where are the new ideas? Where is the rich Milanese tailoring tradition? Where are the accessories? Where is the emotion?" lamented Michael Fink, senior vice president and fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.
A rather melodramatic thought about Milan Fashion Week from a buyer's perspective from the AW08-9 buyers' report from WWD [1]. Perhaps they should start seeking something new from Italy at AltaRomAltaModa [2] (a bit of a mouthful) so in layman’s terms, it’s Rome Fashion Week, which held their 12th event from the 27th-31st January. I vaguely knew about a number of Italian designers opting to show in Rome as opposed to Milan and going through the designers [3]that showed at AltaRomAltaModa (I'll say it a few more times...) and reading their mission statement [4], it is evident that their focus is on seeking out the craftsmanship and luxury in designers and of course, the all important reputation of being ‘Made in Italy’. So you’ll have a mix of the old school Rome fashion houses that show there as well as the second generation Roman designers and then also an opportunity for the up and coming, as nurtured by the ‘Who is On Next’ competition [5] that is in association with Alta Roma [6] and Vogue Italia.
It is from this portion of the schedule [7], that the label Carta e Costura [8] has jumped out at me. Alessandra Carta, the designer behind the brand, takes the concept of ‘luxury’, something that may seem quite otherworldly and slightly alienating to a new generation of fashion consumers and makes it modern by keeping things ‘understated’. After winning the 2007 ‘Who is On Next’ competition, they have won stockists like Gio Moretti in Milan and Harvey Nichols in London. Their AW08-9 collection is described as a ‘neo-urban women’s fashion’ evolved from ‘neo-romantic futuristic shapes’, reminiscent of the 60s’ and 80s’.
However, I’m feeling like they have transplanted 17th century Dutch art masters attire to the 21st century and by the magnificent powers of luxurious double duchesse satin, cashmere and taffeta and a restrained palette of black, grey and mauve, suddenly a giant floopy black painters’ hat and some voluminous attire all flows superbly. Something in the judgement of lengths, fit and drapery that has gotten me interested in delving into what the new wave of Italian designers such as Carta e Costura [9] and 6267 [10] have to offer.....
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