Designer Ennio Capasa takes on a spa vacation for Spring/Summer, the looks at Costume National more relaxed this season and very monochromatic. The pants this season are tight on the leg and even the sleeves on the jackets and blazers are tailored tight on the arm. The highlight is classic long sleeve pieces that have been worked with a short-capped sleeve for spring. One of the standout pieces in the opening section was a pale gray synthetic fabric-driving jacket. The jacket has a short sleeve and no collar. Another highlight of the opening section is low v-necklines on the sheer and light tops. One of the standout pieces is a light knit sweater with long sleeves. The knit top is pieces together with a sheer weave stripe contrasted with a slightly heavier knit.

The second section moves towards a brown color palette with an emphasis on lighter shades of brown mixed with soft shades of gray. One of the standout looks in this section is a two-piece favorite of mine that really takes on a new comfortable and less strict look for Costume National. Capasa showed light off-white jersey top with plunging v-neck line with a linen drawstring pant. The pant has a baggy loose fit, which matches the draped silhouette of the top. The closing section of the collection is a series of soft and white looks moving into classic all black National style looks. One of the standout pieces in the closing section is not the classic Costume National tuxedo. Instead it’s the white silk blend overcoat. The coat is double breasted with a slight trench coat silhouette.

The must have looks are from the closing section of the collection. Of coarse I have to pick one the classic black and white looks for Costume National. A basic white dress shirt but with a short sleeve that rolled up higher. The shirt paired with the trend of the season a black and gray skinny tie and to key to the look a black linen loose leg pant with a drawstring waist. The other must have look is the pale ecru linen blend suit worn with a black skinny tie. I was delighted to see Ennio Capasa really jump out of the constraints of the Costume National “look”. His new vision of a more relaxed and younger look is a great direction for the brand. While he still focuses on great tailoring the overall statement is more powerful. Bravo Monsieur Capasa!

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