The Gauche and the Grotesque
I came across Scherer Gonzalez' work first via Mahret at F&ART (aka German-fash bible...) but I had to have the name jogged out of me when I was thinking of suitable Met Costume Institute Ball alternative affair. Quite simply, Paul Scherer and Constanza Gonzalez' designs show an atypical side to German fashion that rests in fairytales, fantasy and dreamscapes. In fact from my first look at the collection, it all borders on being quite gauche/ugly/grotesque.... not positive initial sentiments but somehow, something good comes out of those descriptions. I'm definitely thinking of the old-fashioned and true meaning of the word 'grotesque' being bizarre, strange and fantastic. The number and quality of techniques and materials that Gonzalez and Scherer have utilised in their collection simply demands respect however you feel about exaggerated butts, yards of shiny fabrics or dramatic-bordering-on-costumelike evening wear. Duchesse satin specially dyed and hand silk washed to get different effects... zips, straps and ties used in abundance... heightening of the female form... carefully structured curves everywhere...
It's all so ri-DON-culous (my silly way of saying a heightened version of 'ridiculous') and OTT that you go back and forth between thinking it's very grotesque or very beautiful...
Furthermore, I'm fascinated by their 'more is more' philosophy as an increasing number of new labels that are very wearable and slightly dilluted pop up, along come these new guns who have something a little irreverant to say...
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